An HID kit will have the complexity of added wiring or ballasts that can cope with the DRL mode of dimmed low beam during daytime. The DiodeDynamics SL1 or Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 would be better since they use better LEDs at proper currents, but too pricy for what are just temporary lights for me while I work on the HID versions.Įasiest/cheapest option is to stick with good H11 halogen bulbs, or upgrade to H9 halogen if you want better output (higher power draw and more heat). The filament inside is made from tungsten and halogen gas. Halogen bulbs produce heat inside a filament (or bulb) to generate light. It’s been used as the standard for decades because of the low cost. The halogen light bulb is the most popular of all three. Amount of power consumed by different bulb types Halogen bulb: 56.7 watts HID bulb: 41.9 watts LED bulb: 32. It can also have a significantly lower heat output than other bulbs. Beam pattern is fine, color is nice, output is ok, but still not quite what a good H11 halogen bulb will give. The LED H11 bulb can have a significant lifespan. I've ran these since November, it got too cold to remove them by the return deadline so I just kept them in. High-Intensity Discharge (or HID) is the newer kid on the block for production lighting. This bulb design is key with the placement of the LEDs to replicate the position of the halogen filament. Any other bulb design with a longer heatsink will not fit. Which LED bulbs did you try? I decided to try some clones of the Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 from amazon for like $30, and they fit, but required persuasion by bolting the access cover shut.
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